I know that I have said this about almost everywhere we have been to in NZ so far… but the places we have been to in the last week, have been some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. (I had to include a little disclaimer because I can already hear my Dad saying: “You say that about every place you go to!”) :) Starting off from where the last posted ended on February 18th, we left Greymouth and stopped at the Monteith’s Brewery tour on the way out of town. Although I had already been on brewery tours in Dublin (Guinness) and Amsterdam (Heineken), this was very different and well worth it. It wasn’t over commercialized at all, and took us through the brewery itself from all of the machinery to the bottling and packaging area. It was interesting to learn that two women manually put all of the bottles into the cases from the assembly line, and they can package four bottles per second! At the end of the tour we got to try each of their seven product lines in a little bar they had on site, and even pour our own pints from the tap (the highlight of course!) Here we met a couple from Denmark that we really got along with and ended up chatting with them until we got kicked out because the next tour was starting. We exchanged contact info and are hoping to meet up with them later on in Australia. After the tour, we continued to head south down the west coast and eventually reached the Franz Joseph township around 6 pm or so. We checked into a dorm because it was raining so much, and we knew our little tent doesn’t handle rain too well. That night we just got settled in, had some dinner and then headed to the Monsoon Bar (their motto is “it rains, we pour”). We sat down to watch the rugby game on TV and met three guys from England, who started to explain the rules to us. They ended up being part of a ‘Kiwi Experience’ tour, which is kind of like a Contiki tour. Later on, they introduced us to a few others from Ireland and Scotland, and we ended up hanging out with all of them for the rest of the night. The next morning we got up early and drove half an hour to Fox Glacier, where we went on a half-day guided glacier hike! There were about 25 of us on the bus up to the trail head, and when we got to the top we were split into two groups with one guide each. Just because of where we were standing, Keith and I ended up being the only two grouped with a Japanese tour group of teenage girls. The funniest part was when our guide asked us where we were from and I replied Canada, all of the girls starting screaming, “CANADA! JUSTIN BIEBER!” Then all started to sing “Baby, Baby”… we didn’t really know how to respond, but it’s good to know what our country is known for in Japan! haha To get up to the glacier itself, we actually had to hike through a rainforest and climb about 700 steps. It was strange walking through a warm rainforest in a tanktop and then arriving on the cold ice and putting on several layers and a big jacket. We had a great guide who we were able to talk a lot with because we were always waiting for the rest of the group (I don’t think they really knew what they had signed up for). When we got to the ice, we strapped on some crampons, grabbed a walking stick and started to make our way through a crevasse with some blue ice! It was such a unique experience and I really enjoyed it. In hindsight, I kind of wish we had coughed paid the extra sixty bucks to do the full day tour instead, so we could have had more time on the ice, but it was still awesome. That afternoon, we walked around beautiful Lake Mathieson (which is famous for its mirror like appearance) and then checked out Franz Joepsh Glacier. Later that night we went back to the bar to meet up with everyone and had another great night out.
Sunday morning we left pretty early and made our way down to Wanaka. It was a pretty long drive and we didn’t really make any stops along the way. We got there mid-afternoon and decided to go to a 4 pm movie in the coolest movie theatre I have ever been to. Forget boring old movie theatre seats; this small theatre had about 15 comfy couches to lounge on while you watch the movie. Or you could choose to sit in the old car they have sitting in the corner for a drive-in movie experience. It was so cool! There is also an intermission where you can go out into the lobby and buy some freshly baked cookies, or homemade ice cream! We watched 127 hours, such an incredible movie; we highly recommend it if anyone hasn’t already seen it. After the movie, we drove down to Queenstown and checked into our hostel almost directly on the lakefront. As I have heard from so many people, this town reminded me so much of Banff; it was beautiful. We met two awesome girls in our room from Sweden and England, and agreed to meet up with them later in the night. Then Keith and I grabbed some pizza for dinner and took a nice walk along the lake, before getting to World Bar at 10 pm to meet our roommates. This bar was really fun because you could have cocktail drinks out of teapots! We stayed there for a while, and then hit a couple more places before finding a bar called Cowboys - just what we needed for a little taste of home. :) This place was hilarious; the first thing you see when you walk in the door is a massive stuffed grizzly bear. The bar stools were saddles and the beer taps were pistols. There was even a mechanical bull to ride, which of course we did and Keith impressed everyone. It was a really fun night. We had a bit of a slow start to the next day, and went for breakfast at a cafĂ© near our hostel with our Swedish roommate. There was a great hike we really wanted to do in Wanaka so we drove back there, only to find out the trail wasn’t accessible because of all of the rain. Since we were already there, we did the Diamond Lake hike for a couple hours, which was nice but nothing too special. When I was in Berlin last October, I met a girl named Laura who is from NZ. Although she lives in Dunedin, she was staying in Glenorchy for a couple nights before starting a four day hike. The timing worked out great, so that evening Keith and I drove there to see her. The forty minute drive in between Queenstown and Glenorchy along the lakes and mountains was incredible, and the town itself was so serene and peaceful. The mountains in the area were actually used as the ‘Misty Mountains’ in the Lord of the Rings films. Laura had just messaged me her address that day and wasn’t sure if I was going to read the email, so she was so surprised and excited to see us when we arrived. We also met her friend, sister and dad; all of whom were so nice, and invited us to stay for dinner. We ate outside overlooking the mountains, had a wonderful meal of salad and delicious lamb (had to try this in NZ!), and had a really nice visit. That is such a cool part about traveling – when you start visiting people you have met in other parts of the world. I love it! It was great to see her, and we ended up spending the whole night there; not getting back to Queenstown until pretty late. It was our first time driving on the highway at night, and we saw tons of possums hopping along the side of the road (they are considered pests here and are very common road kill). Luckily we didn’t hit any – although Laura’s Dad said that we should try to.
Tuesday morning we got some groceries before leaving Queenstown and were surprised to see the Heritage Classic hockey game in Calgary being played there on TV! Go Flames! Then it was on to Te Anau, only about two hours away. It was here that we first heard about the horrific earthquake that had hit Christchurch mid-day. We were very fortunate to have been so far away, because we could have very easily been there. We didn’t even know the extent of the damage until a few days later because we were pretty isolated from any news sources. I’m sorry again for all of those who were worried about us, thank you so much for all of the messages! We went to the information site here and booked a kayak trip and accommodation in Milford Sound. Then we continued north on another nice drive to the lodge, passing more beautiful waterfalls and lakes on the way. Through these mountains, we were also able to get a close up look at some Kea, which are the world’s only alpine parrots. They are known for being very mischievous, and are called ‘clown’ or ‘teenager’ birds by locals. We had a relaxing night in preparation for yet another early wake up time the next morning.
The Milford Sound kayak trip that we did on Wednesday was easily a trip highlight. Even compared to the Abel Tasman kayaking we enjoyed so much, this trip was just on another level. We met up with our guide and the other five people in our group at 7 am sharp, and headed down to the waterfront. At this time in the morning, we were the ONLY ones on the water for about an hour, which was unbelievable. The water was so calm, and it was a perfectly warm and sunny day (very lucky considering it rains 200 days out of the year in Milford). We got suited up in our stylish purple stripped thermal leggings and sweater, rain jacket and life jacket; then it was into the tandem kayaks and out on the water. Our guide was really great, telling us a lot about the area, history and wildlife. Along the way we saw so many huge waterfalls, and even kayaked underneath one! We got soaked, but it was cool to look up as we went underneath and see the droplets falling under a shimmer of a rainbow caused by the sun. Just amazing. I really think the only way to truly experience Milford Sound is by kayak, because only when you are so low on the water, are you able to really get a feel for how HUGE the majestic cliff walls on either side of you are. Then just when we thought it couldn’t get better, we looked down and noticed seals swimming next to us! We also passed a seal colony lounging in the sun; it was definitely the closest I have ever been to these animals in the wild. Around four and a half hours later (after paddling for about 20 km across the entire length of the Sound), we reached the Tasman Sea. It really felt like an accomplishment and I continue to surprise myself with what I am capable of! From there, we hopped into a speed boat and enjoyed a nice cruise all the way back. Keith and I have truly found a new passion in kayaking! After saying goodbye to our group, we got back in the car and headed south for another five hour drive.
When I said at the beginning of the blog that these places were some of the most beautiful I have ever seen; I meant it. However, another major observation we made was how similar these areas were to Canada! A lot of people we met along the way said the same thing. We both feel like we haven't taken enough advantage of where we live and look forward to enjoying these activities back home as well!